Thinking of climbing Mount Fuji but want to avoid the crowds? I recently tackled the challenging Gotemba Trail with my teenage son. Here is our story, filled with the highs, the lows, and the essential lessons we learned along the way.
Why I Chose the Gotemba Trail for Our Fuji Ascent
Climbing Mount Fuji had been a long-held ambition, and I wanted to share the experience with my son and step daughter. When we started planning, months in advance, we looked at the different routes. The popular Yoshida Trail seemed more like a procession than a hike. We were looking for a challenge and a sense of solitude. That’s when we settled on the Gotemba Trail.
Known as the longest and least crowded route, it offered the personal journey we were after. The promise of the famous “Osunabashiri” – the great sand run on the descent – sealed the deal. It sounded like an adventure, and it certainly was.
Planning Our Climb: Logistics, Fees, and a Few Mistakes
Our plan was simple, if a little ambitious: take the first bus, start climbing around 5 AM, summit by midday, and be back down for the penultimate bus in the afternoon. Here’s how the planning phase went, and the crucial lessons we learned before even taking our first step.
The Digital Hurdle: Booking and Fees
For the 2025 climbing season, booking ahead is mandatory. This meant paying a 4,000 yen climbing fee and navigating a registration process online. We had to download an app, complete a short safety exam, and get a QR code. To be honest, I found the whole process rather cumbersome, especially when you can still pay at the station. However, to avoid any issues, I’d recommend getting it sorted in advance.
Essential Gear: What We Packed and What I’d Change
I knew that a 3,700-metre mountain, completely exposed to the elements, was not to be taken lightly. We went with a comprehensive gear list, and I’m glad we did. Here’s what I consider non-negotiable:
- Proper Hiking Boots: I made the mistake of wearing trail running shoes to save space in my luggage. While I managed, my feet paid the price on the descent. The fine volcanic gravel gets into everything. My son’s high-ankled Gore-Tex boots were a much better choice.
- Layered Clothing: We packed multiple layers, including thermals, trekking trousers, and a Gore-Tex jacket. You’ll need them. The temperature difference between the base and the summit is considerable, even in August.
- Trekking Poles: I cannot stress this enough – trekking poles are a lifesaver on the ascent. The ground is a loose, energy-sapping mix of sand and volcanic dust, and the poles provide essential stability.
- Food and Water: We carried three litres of water between us (1.5 litres each), which was about right. I had also packed energy gels and bars, calculating an intake every 45 minutes. My son, however, was not a fan of this “diet,” and his hunger later on was a real issue. My advice: pack snacks you actually enjoy eating!
My biggest error was letting my son carry a backpack that was too heavy and ill-fitting. The strain began to show after a few hours. It’s a classic mistake, but one that can seriously impact your climb. Pack smart, and keep the weight down.
The Ascent: A Step-by-Step Account of Our Journey
6:43 AM: An Unplanned Taxi Ride
Our meticulous plan hit a snag immediately. The first bus from Gotemba Station to the trailhead didn’t leave until after 7:00 AM. This would have thrown our entire schedule off. The only solution was a taxi, which set us back about 6,000 yen. It was a frustrating, but necessary, start to the day.
The Climb to the Summit (Approximately 5 Hours)
At the New Gotemba 5th Station, our QR codes were scanned and we were given wristbands. Unlike what I’ve read about other trails, there was no gear check. The climb began immediately, winding up through a stark, volcanic landscape with zero vegetation. The sun was a real factor, and a good hat and sunscreen are essential.
The main challenge wasn’t the steepness, but the ground itself. Every step felt like it sank into the loose gravel, draining our energy. We adopted a rhythm that felt painfully slow – about 20 minutes per kilometre – but it was all we could manage.
Be warned: there are no toilets or water stops until the 6th station.
The path gets tougher and rockier from the 7th station upwards. We were now above 3,000 metres, and the air was noticeably thinner. It was here we started seeing more people, mostly climbers descending after watching the sunrise. The final 1.5 km from the 8th station is a tough scramble over loose rock and large steps, with a sign estimating it would take 90 minutes. It felt longer.
The Summit: Vending Machines, Views, and Altitude Sickness
After nearly five hours of climbing, we finally reached the torii gate at the summit. The feeling was incredible. We spent an hour walking the “Ohachi-meguri,” the path around the enormous crater. It was surreal to find vending machines up there, but this is Japan, after all!
It was at the summit that the altitude began to hit my son. He developed a headache, and combined with hunger from his dislike of the energy gels, he was not a happy camper. We queued for the obligatory photo at the 3,776-metre peak next to the observatory before preparing for the long journey down.
The Legendary “Osunabashiri” Great Sand Run
The descent is what makes the Gotemba Trail famous. After carefully navigating the rocky upper sections, we reached the Osunabashiri. It’s a wide, straight path of volcanic gravel that you can literally run down at high speed.
It was exhilarating and genuinely fun. We covered huge distances in a fraction of the time it took to climb. However, this is where my choice of footwear came back to haunt me. Even with gaiters, my trail shoes filled with sharp stones. I had to stop three or four times to empty them, as it became impossible to continue. It’s a messy, dusty, but unforgettable experience.
Final Thoughts and What I’d Do Differently
We stumbled back to the 5th Station at 3:00 PM, physically and mentally drained. We had missed the 3:00 PM bus and faced a two-hour wait for the next one. Too exhausted to contemplate it, we hailed another taxi, arriving back at our hotel covered head-to-toe in black volcanic dust.
We made a few errors that could have been avoided with better first-hand information. But in the end, everything went to plan. The weather was perfect, the views were breathtaking, and we experienced the quiet majesty of Mount Fuji away from the crowds. We got the adventure we came for.
If you’re looking for a serious challenge and a more personal journey up Japan’s most sacred mountain, the Gotemba Trail is an incredible choice. Just make sure you wear the right boots!